Roses are among the most amenable of plants and given good feeding, they will thrive in most soils from light sand to heavy clay.  Rich loam will give excellent results but it is not essential.  This is not to say that roses will thrive in any location.  For instance, they dislike cold boggy soils and the conditions produced when a builder has removed all the topsoil.  Roses are not too keen on being planted under trees, or in heavy shade. They will tolerate dappled shade, although the number of blooms produced will be reduced. Choose a site sheltered from cold winds.

Container grown roses can be planted all year round as long as the ground is not frozen.

Prepare the site well.  Your rose should give many years pleasure and deserves to get the best start.  Dig the area well, applying a liberal dressing of well rotted garden compost, or better still farmyard manure (or equivalent).

• Soak your rose thoroughly in its pot before planting.
  Dig your planting hole, large enough to comfortably take the rootball.
• Loosen the soil in the bottom of the hole to aid drainage.
• Mix the excavated soil with a mixture of garden compost and a general fertiliser.
• Remove the pot and position your rose in the hole, ensuring that the surrounding soil and top of the rootball are at the same level.
• Fill around the rootball with the excavated soil and gently firm. Water in well.
• If you are planting a dormant rose (one that has not started into growth) between October and early March, prune back to 8-15cm (3-6in) above ground level to promote vigorous growth in spring.

Planting Distances are as recommended on the label, always allow at least 45cm (18”) or 2.5m (8ft) for climbers.

Planting Climbing and Rambling Roses
If planting against a wall ensure the planting hole is at least 45-60cm (18-24”) away from the wall, then follow the instructions as above.
If you are training your climber against a wall or fence you’ll need to provide a framework of wires to train the stems along. The first should be approximately 60cm above ground level, then at 60cm intervals. Tie the stems onto the framework horizontally and these stems will produce vertical shoots which can be trained along the next level of wires and a bare base will be avoided.

Re-planting an existing rose bed
If your are re-planting an existing rose bed it will be necessary to replace the soil to avoid the risk of rose sickness.  An alternative is to rest the ground for three or four years.

Feeding Roses are living things – and as we all benefit from proper meals, so do roses.  Use a good rose food as directed by the maker and top dress annually with a mulch of garden compost, pulverised bark, or well rotted farmyard manure. This will also reduce the need for weeding and conserve moisture.

Pest and diseases may sometimes be a problem but remember a well fed plant has more chance of combating disease than a starved weakling. If pests and diseases do demand attention use a pesticide and fungicide or a combination, following the makers’ instructions. All the roses in the Mattocks range have been bred to have superior disease resistance.